At a time when India’s food landscape is rapidly evolving—shaped by foreign cuisines and social media trends—it is essential to acknowledge those who preserve traditional culinary knowledge. These custodians, often elders or community leaders, embody a wealth of heirloom recipes, though their names may only be familiar to locals.
Vikram Doctor, a food writer, points to Dona Figueiredo in Madgaon, Goa, as a key figure to visit during the Christmas season. Figueiredo is known for her collection of old Goan Catholic sweets and snacks, notably the delicate pastry known as pastéis de banana, which encases sticky fig jam or banana jam.
In Hyderabad, Dilnaz Baig has gained recognition for her home-cooked Nizami meals. Meanwhile, Rafia Koya in Mangaluru is celebrated for her generous servings of Mappila cuisine, including neichoru (ghee rice) and kozhi porichathu (spiced chicken fry). In Mumbai, restaurateur Kainaz Contractor highlights the contributions of historian Kurush Dalal regarding Parsi cuisine. Dalal, whose mother was renowned for her Parsi catering, has authored works that document culinary customs and forgotten recipes, such as tadi ma gosht (meat cooked in toddy), which Contractor consults when curating the menu at Rustom’s.
This overview is not exhaustive; readers are encouraged to share their recommendations by contacting mag.letters@thehindu.co.in.
